Perhaps, for some, tasting nine wines at 10.15am on a Wednesday morning may seem out of the ordinary and slightly too much to take on. But when you are in company of Claire Scott, a lively, passionate representative of d’Arenberg Wines from Adelaide, South Australia, you can’t help but be excited about what’s on offer.
Being an Adelaidean myself, perhaps my excitement was more for the area these wines come from and the memories of home. However, on tasting these wines and hearing of the stories and passion behind them, I left feeling that d’Arenberg is about more than just the wet stuff – it’s the character, the personality and the commitment to their product which make them as successful as they are.
d'Arenberg's 'Wild Pixie' Shiraz-Roussanne and 'Dead Arm' ShirazEstablished in 1912, by Joseph Osborn, d’Arenberg is headed by fourth generation winemaker, Chester Osborn – who describes himself as slightly crazy. In daring to be different he planted grape varieties traditionally associated with France, Spain and Italy – including marsanne, roussanne, viognier, tempranillo, sangiovese and sagrantino – not knowing what they would create.
Fortunately their McLaren Vale location, with its proximity to the ocean providing cooling ocean breezes and its Mediterranean climate, proved these varieties to be a success and d’Arenberg have planted their feet solidly in the wine market both in Australia and internationally.
The real personality of Chester Osborn comes through not only the wine, but through an eclectic collection of titles including: The Money Spider, The Coppermine Road, The Footbolt, The Wild Pixie (referring to Chester himself), The Dead Arm and d’Arry’s Original, each with a personal story behind it.
For me, particular highlights of the tasting included the modestly priced d’Arenberg White Ochre (£6.95), a blended white which is deliciously fruity, fresh and floral on the nose, and does not disappoint on the palate. Perfect with light salads, fish, or as an aperitif, this wine is summer in a glass.
For the reds, the d’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz – their most reputable wine – provides a complexity that gives a deep, ruby red colour, red fruit and spicy character on the nose, and definitely delivers on the palate. Spicy, mocha, liquorice and aniseed flavours combine with good body and tannin to create a well balanced red which will develop to an even greater level with age. Perfect with an Aussie barbie!
In celebration of their centurion achievement next year in 2012, the Osborn family are taking their creations to the next level and are currently in production of a sparkling wine with the working title of DADD – perhaps to be comically paired with the well known Mumm? – to add to their cracking range.
I tilt my glass to the Osborn family and the pride that shouts “don’t just drink me, enjoy and savour me” from their wines.
Jo Mansell
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